What Does a Bespoke Tailor Do?

Customized clothing: tailor-made, single-piece clothing according to the individual wearer's personal situation.

Clothing customization

Clothing customization: according to

Refers to tailor-made, one-piece garments based on the individual wearer's personal circumstances. This is the case in most clothing shops

From the beginning of the history of tailoring, clothing was tailored according to individual tailoring, and then tailored according to size. Different people have different practices, so in general, each piece is personalized. However, since the word "ready-to-wear" appeared in the middle of the last century, the tailor shop has gradually faded out of the stage of garment production. Although it has not disappeared, it has become much worse in the proportion of clothing. But now, tailor-made clothing has begun to appear in the city, and has regained an important position. Unlike before, he now mainly serves urban white-collar workers, urban nobles, and people who pay attention to taste and personality. These people have money Free and capable, also have status.

First, find the right designer or tailor --- find the wrong person you may waste money, find the right person you can value for money. 2. Fully communicate with designers-understand each other, mobilize emotions, and inspire.

Third, put forward your ideas with the designer-such as what style of clothing you want, or point out the idol in your heart; also tell your specific things-such as what occasions are needed, your identity, role, etc. The designer will help you think about it.

4. Measure 24 or more sizes of the human body.

Five, the designer plans. If you do nt understand the pattern, do nt know anything about it, make sure the designer understands his (her) intentions, ideas, details and so on. Six, try a sample, that is, a white cloth sample clothing, jargon is called "white approval."

Seven, choose the fabric.

Eight, try the "semi-finished products" made of specified fabrics. The neckline, cuffs and shoulders of the semi-finished product can also be modified.

Nine, white batch-semi-finished product-finished product, advanced customization must have more than three trial installations, continuous modification and improvement, like Dior's advanced customization requires 10 trial installations.

X. Final completion.

A good suit has strict requirements on cutting, fabrics and accessories. The production of a suit requires about four major processes and more than 300 small processes. The quality of the suit is determined by the difference in process. The currently popular processes can be summarized into four types.

1. Fused

Adhesive lining is a modern suit technology. Both the front and the front of the suit need a layer of lining, and the chest lining uses an adhesive lining to keep the suit straight. More than 95% of domestic brand suits, and more than 80% of foreign suit brands also use this process.

Advantages: the production of the adhesive lining process is relatively simple, suitable for large-scale assembly line production, the unit production efficiency is high, and the cost is low.

Disadvantages:

1. The front of the suit is flat, but it is slightly stiff; if the chest muscles are not developed enough, the client will not feel full.

2, wear resistance is not as good as wool lined suits, often wear (1-2 times a week) life is generally less than 3 years.

3. The adhesive lining will destroy the soft and elegant feeling of some ultra-fine wool fabrics, so high-grade fabrics are not suitable for this process.

Second, half wool lining (Half Canvas)

The classic suit process is a higher level product than the adhesive lining. The woolen chest lining reaches the waist of the front of the suit from top to bottom, hence the name half wool lining. Because the half-wool lined suit has no sticky lining on the front body, the wool lining and the fabric must be sewn directly. This requires the fiber lining and the fabric to be uniformly flexible and tight. At the same time, the fiber patch head must reach the wool lining, that is, the fabric on the fiber must not penetrate the needle. After the fiber patch is finished, the two patch heads will show a natural eversion state without the needle, so as to achieve the perfect appearance of the appearance.

U-shirts add a ponytail lining made of the highest-level real ponytail mane to the two front and left front and shoulders of the chest.

Advantages: It changes the flat and stiff feeling of the patch on the adhesive-lined suit. Even if the client's pectoral muscles are not developed enough, the patch and the front chest can be fuller and more natural.

Disadvantages:

1. Although the splice does not need to be bonded, the front body still needs to be bonded with a layer of woven fabric, which destroys the softness and comfort of the high-end fabric;

2. The process of fiber barge has been increased, which greatly increases the difficulty and man-hours of the process, leading to an increase in cost and selling price.

3. Full Canvas

The high-end suit technology does not use adhesive at all. It relies entirely on wool lining to set off the shape of the suit. The chest lining reaches the bottom of the suit's front body from top to bottom. The process of full-wool lined suits is complicated. The process of attaching wool linings must be carried out in an environment with a humidity of 90% to restore the fabric to the state of natural stretch when weaving. This is very time-consuming and time-consuming. Domestically produced suits rarely have full-wool lining suits, and only imported products use this process in imported suits. The hoodie full lining is padded with a ponytail made from the highest level of real ponytail mane.

advantage:

1, completely rely on wool lining to set off the shape of the suit, the appearance feels soft and strong, comfortable, natural and stiff;

2. The fabric does not adhere to any interlining, so it retains the softness and delicateness of high-grade fabrics completely;

3. The front body does not require any lining, so the surface fabric and middle wool lining of the suit can slide when the owner moves, thereby reducing the wrinkles on the front of the suit, and the overall feel is more flat and stiff;

Disadvantages:

1. The process is extremely difficult, and only a few factories in China can make it;

2. The production has high environmental requirements and many processes, which greatly increases the cost of suits.

Fourth, handmade suits (Bespoke)

Top master craftsmanship, diamonds on the crown of suit world. Cutting, digging pockets, buttonholes, upper sleeves, seams, and grommets are all done by hand. For example, the buttonhole of a suit shirt alone requires more than 8 hours to be completed by a senior master with more than 10 years of sewing experience.

advantage:

1. Hand-made shoulders: The shoulder pads can be slid between layers when people are moving, so as to give a margin and not let the shoulders feel bound.

2. Manual buttonhole: the buttonhole of the machine is first buttonhole and then cut out, it is easy to form uneven burrs in the buttonhole. Manual buttonhole is to cut the buttonhole on the clothes first, and then manually lock the buttonhole. There is no burr in the buttonhole. At the same time, the buttonhole is more three-dimensional and delicate.

3, hand-sewn lining: Give the leeway of each lining a piece of cloth, so that people can reduce the restraint of clothes on people when they are moving.

In one sentence, I summarize a top-quality handmade suit: a second layer of skin that can move with the owner's activities.

Disadvantages:

1. The technical level is extremely high. Usually, it must be a top-level suit master to produce. At present, masters who can complete all the procedures are very rare.

2. Extremely time-consuming, usually 5-8 times that of ordinary suits;

3. Expensive.