What Is a Woodworking Chisel?

Woodworking tools are appliances used in wood processing. Generally have sharp edges, you must pay attention to safety when using. It needs to be ground frequently, especially the planer and chisel. It must be sharpened at any time to save labor and ensure quality during use. The so-called "knife does not cut woodworkers by mistake" is the reason.

Power tools can be divided into multi-function tools (Wan Yingbao) and single-function tools (such as electric planers, jigsaws, electric circular saws, sanders and engraving machines) according to their functions; pneumatic tools include sanders and nailers ; Hand tools can be divided into measuring tools, hand saws, woodworking planers, wood files, hand chisels, wood sandpaper.

Multifunctional tool

The multifunctional power tool commonly used in decoration woodworking is Wanyingbao. Wanyingbao uses a swing design to provide many unique and free wide uses. Only one machine and various accessories can be used to achieve sawing and grinding. , Scraping, cutting, filing, and compaction, no sparks when cutting iron plates, safe and reliable.

Features: a. Swing design, cutting iron plate without sparks, sawing iron without sawing hands; b. 3.2-degree swing angle plus 86-degree triangle polishing pad, suitable for grinding at 90-degree corners; Grinding pads, suitable for sanding with small intervals.

Single-function power tools

The single-function power tools commonly used in decoration woodworking are electric planers, jigsaws, circular saws, sanding tools and small engraving tools.

Electric planer

Is one of the main tools used in woodworking decoration. It is mainly used for planing the flat surface of various woods. The products are divided into short planing and rough planing. Rough planing is mainly used for planing straight wooden surfaces, and can process relatively large board planing; short planing can be used in addition to board planing.

There are two types of portable pneumatic tools commonly used in carpentry decoration: polishers and nail guns.

Woodworking hand tools are tools used in the manual operation of woodworking, and are the cornerstone of the invention of electric tools and pneumatic tools. They mainly include hand saws, woodworking planes, wood files, hand chisels, wood sandpaper, and measuring tools.

Woodworking tools hand saw

The sawing process by hand saw is an important part of the traditional furniture manufacturing process.

Jagged saw road

Saw, you can cut wood into various shapes, or reach the size required for wooden components. The purpose of sawing is to cut the wood longitudinally or cut it horizontally. When the saw is cutting, it is a work process of fast cutting the wood in a straight line or in the form of light pressing and advancing in a curved form. In this process, the saw cuts the wood. Because the teeth of the saw blade continue to function, the wood also generates a large friction or squeezing force on the teeth. Therefore, the saw blade must have strength against crushing force, and have certain plasticity and heat resistance, so that the tooth edge of the saw blade does not become dull.

When selecting a saw blade, it is necessary to choose both a good saw blade rigidity and a good saw blade toughness, so that the saw blade is easy to file and resistant to use. Generally, hand saw blades are made of carbon tool steel, and their rigidity and heat treatment are relatively good. Mechanical circular saw blades are made of alloy tool steel, which can meet the characteristics of circular saw blades. Band saw blades are Made of chromium tungsten manganese alloy steel, its rigidity and hardness are relatively moderate. Therefore, choosing a saw blade also requires a real understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of the saw blade in practice.

In the practice of making, with the improvement of the quality of furniture products and the improvement and development of manufacturing technology, carpentry craftsmen have invented a large number of sawing tools that are suitable for processing. Some have been eliminated and some have continued to use them. However, from the perspective of the craftsmanship of traditional craftsmen at this stage, one is that traditional craftsmanship requires manual tools; the other is that the mechanized production of sharpening, repair, and maintenance technologies are all related to the maintenance technology principles of manual tools and develop. Therefore, knowing the traditional types of many saws, being familiar with the performance of hand saws, and being good at using them correctly, will help improve the level of traditional craftsmanship.

The core of woodworking saws is saw teeth. The saws of different sawing purposes have different tooth shapes and saw paths. The shape of the tooth edge is related to the angle of the saw tooth. Generally, the sawtooth shape is slightly inclined, about 90 ° -95 °, and the cutting saw and curved saw are between 80 ° -85 °. When used, the larger the angle formed by the saw tooth angle and the root line of the saw blade, the weaker the sawing force and the easier the sawdust to discharge. On the contrary, the smaller the angle, the stronger the sawing force and the less likely the sawdust to be discharged. The degree of softness, hardness, and humidity of the wood material also determines the sawtooth angle. For example, when sawing hard or dry wood, the sawtooth angle should be smaller, and when sawing soft or wet wood, the sawtooth angle should be as large as possible. . Newly made saws or saws with blunt blades must be filed with a file. When filing teeth, you should pay attention to the back of the tooth is not higher than the tooth edge, the edge of the tooth throat angle is straight and not protruding, the tooth distance is consistent, the tooth chamber size is uniform, the tooth throat angle should be slightly curved, and the tooth tip should be sharp and bright . Due to the different purposes of the saw, the saw also needs to perform different forms of bifurcation treatment on the saw teeth, thereby forming a "saw path" with a wide or narrow tooth edge. The sawing path is usually completed with a special "dipper". When setting the saw teeth, pay attention to the sawing path is uniform, the size and angle are the same, the sawing path is straight, and there are no protruding, recessed or twisted teeth. Otherwise, the saw will appear during use. The phenomenon of beating or "running on the road" affects the normal sawing. Larger roads are suitable for soft or wet wood, while smaller roads are suitable for hard or dry wood.

Saw type

1. Frame saw. Also known as a frame saw, it is composed of an I-shaped wooden frame, a twisted rope and a blade, a saw blade, and the like. The ends of the saw blade are fixed on the frame with knobs, and the angle of the saw blade can be adjusted with it. After the rope is tightened, the saw blade is tightened and ready to use. Frame saws can be divided into coarse, medium and fine according to the length and pitch of the saw blade. The rough saw blade is 650-750mm long and the tooth pitch is 4-5mm. The rough saw blade is mainly used for sawing thick wood; the medium saw blade is 550-650mm long and the tooth pitch is 3-4mm. The medium saw is mainly used for sawing thin wood or Tenoning head; fine saw blades are 450-500mm long and tooth pitch is 2-3mm. Fine saws are mainly used for sawing thinner wood and tenoning shoulders.

2. Knife and saw. The knife saw is mainly composed of a saw blade and a saw handle, which can be divided into single-sided, double-sided, and clip-back knife saws. Single-sided hacksaw saw is 350mm long, with a toothed edge on one side, which can be divided into vertical and horizontal cutting according to the function of the toothblade. Double-sided hacksaw saws are 300mm long with toothed edges on both sides. , The other side is a crosscut saw. The length of the clip-back saw blade is 250-300mm. The blade of the clip-back saw is straightened with a steel bar, the teeth are thin, and there are vertical and horizontal saws.

3. Slot saw. The slot saw consists of a handle and a saw blade. The sawing length is 200mm. Slot saws are mainly used for grooving wood.

4. Panel saw. Also known as a hand saw. It consists of a handle and a saw blade. The saw blade is about 250-750mm long and the tooth pitch is 3-4mm. The board saw is mainly used for sawing wider boards.

5, narrow handsaw. The saw blade is narrow and long, the tip is pointed, and the length is about 300-400mm. Narrow hand saws are mainly used to cut narrow holes.

6, jigsaw. Also known as a circular saw, its structure is the same as a frame saw, but the saw blade is narrow (about 10mm), mainly used for sawing arcs, curves and other parts.

7, fretsaw. Also known as a bow saw, it is made by bending a bamboo blade into an bow shape, and the two ends of the wire are stretched. The wire is cut with zigzag flying edges, and the sharp edges of the flying edges are used for sawing. The wire is about 200-600mm long, and the saw bow is 800-900mm long. Wire saws are mainly used for sawing complex curves and openings.

Use of saw

(1) Use of frame saw

Before using the frame saw, first adjust the angle of the saw blade with a knob, and tighten the rope with a twisted blade to make the saw blade straight. There are two ways to use the frame saw: vertical cutting and horizontal cutting.

Slitting method

When sawing, place the wood on the bench, hold the wood with your right foot and make a right angle with the sawing line, stand straight with your left foot at an angle of 60 ° with the sawing line, and place your right hand with your right knee perpendicularly. It is appropriate that the line is at an angle of about 45 °. The upper body is slightly tilted, but do not flutter left and right. When sawing, hold the saw with your right hand and the thumb with your left hand against the saw blade to position it. Hold the saw with your right hand and gently push it a few times (pull first and then push it) to open the sawing path, and your left hand will leave the saw edge. When the saw teeth cut into the wood 5mm When left and right, the left hand helps to feed the frame saw by hand. Lift the saw lightly, and raise the saw hand slightly, and send the saw heavy. The wrists, elbows, shoulders, and waist should be forced at the same time and rhythmically. This allows the saw blade to advance along the cutting line. Otherwise, the edges of the wood after vertical cutting will not bend or straight, or the cutting surface will be uneven.

Transverse cutting method

When sawing, the wood is placed on the bench. A person stands at the left rear of the wood, holds the wood with his left hand, holds the saw with his right hand, and holds the wood with his left foot. The sawing method is the same as the longitudinal cutting method.

When cutting with a frame saw, the lower end of the saw blade should be tilted forward. The upper end of the longitudinal saw blade is inclined backward at an angle of about 75 ° -90 ° (the angle between the wood surface) and the horizontal saw blade is inclined backward at an angle of about 30 ° -45 °. Always pay attention to making the saw blade advance along the line and not offset. Saw the mouth straight, do not make the saw blade swing left and right to produce skew. When the wood is about to be cut, you should hold your left hand firmly to cut the material, slow down the cutting speed, and cut all the wood all the time. Don't leave a bit, leave it broken or pull it by hand. This will easily damage the saw blade and wood. It will also tear along the grain, affecting quality.

(2) Use of hand saw

When sawing a wide board with a hand saw, hold the wood with your left hand, hold the handle with your right hand, and play the role of cutting when pushing forward. When the saw is almost finished, the left leg should lean against the wood, and the right foot should be released. The left hand will be transferred to the middle of the sawing line, and the sides will be held by hand to prevent the wood from breaking.

(3) Use of fretsaw

First drill a small hole in the work piece, pass the wire saw blade, and buckle the nail of the bamboo bow with your hand to press and hold the bamboo bow in accordance with the ink line to push and pull (note that you cannot use too much force). Wire tweezers are used. To relax the wire saw blade and make the bamboo bow slack, you can maintain the elasticity of the bamboo bow and avoid the wire saw blade from breaking.

(4) Use of a hole saw

First drill a circular hole on the work piece with a shaker or electric drill, and insert the saw blade into the hole. When sawing, pay attention to the saw blade to match the contour of the work piece being sawed.

Repair of saw

(1) Dial

The pour is adjusted with a dial. When dialing the material, clamp the slot of the dialer to the saw tooth, and force it to open to the left or right, and the degree of opening should meet the requirements of the material.

(2) Cutting

When filing saw teeth, clamp the saw blade on the pile item and saw the meat. Make the saw teeth exposed. According to the size of the saw tooth, use a triangular steel file with a length of 100 to 200 dishes, and press the teeth from right to left. Use one hand to force evenly. If you see jagged Kolu disorder. The blade can be laid flat on the steel plate. Use a wooden hammer to level all the teeth, then re-drill and file. In addition, the saw frame should be repaired. If damage is found to the ropes, nuts, knobs, and crotch joints, it should be adjusted or repaired in time.

Precautions

Large saws are commonly used for wide and thick boards; small saws for narrow and thin wood; rough saws for cross-section cutting; fine saws for mortise and tenon shoulders; saws with large feed paths for hardwood and wet wood; Saw.

When using, you must pay attention to the safe operation methods of various saws:

1. Before using the frame saw, use a knob to adjust the angle of the saw blade. It is customary to make a 45 ° angle with the plane of the wooden frame. Use a hinge to tighten the tension rope to make the saw blade stretch tightly. Hold the saw firmly, press your left hand at the beginning, and push and pull a few times. Do not use excessive force; do not twist left and right when sawing, heavy when sending saws, light when lifting saws, and evenly push and pull; keep the part being sawed by hand when cutting fast. After use, loosen the saw blade and hang it in a firm position.

2. When using a horizontal saw, the forces of the two hands should be balanced to prevent running the saw to the side with a strong force. When correcting the deviation, you should slowly correct the deviation to prevent the saw blade or the saw blade from breaking.

3. When using a wire saw, do not use too much force, and do not pull the saw too fast, so as not to break the wire. When pulling the saw, the operator's head must not be located on the upper end of the bow, so as not to hurt the face when the wire is broken.

4. The sharpness of the saw blade and the firmness of the saw frame and saw handle should be checked at any time; the saw blade with blunt teeth and uneven slope should be repaired in time, and the damage to the rope, nut, knob, handle and wooden frame should be timely. It can only be used after trimming and restoring.

Woodworking tools hand planing

The joints of furniture making, the atmosphere and rules of various linear shapes are all reflected in the making and proper use of woodworking planes. There are many types of manual planers, which are used in the production process of rough planing, fine planing, netting, netting, line drawing, planing grooves, rounding, etc. of wood.

composition

Manual planing is a common tool for making traditional antique furniture. It consists of a planer blade and a planer. The planer blade is forged from metal, and the planer is wooden.

The process of manual planing is the process of continuously cutting the wood in the forward movement of the planer. Planing or processing the surface of wood is called planing. After the wood is drawn with lines, chisels, and tenons, planing is called netting. After the furniture structure is combined, the comprehensive planing and flattening is called net light.

During the continuous cutting of the wood by the planer blade, the large friction of the wood material will react on the cutting edge of the planer blade, which will cause the planer blade to become blunt. If the wood is harder, the sharpening of the planing edge becomes faster. If there are many debris on the surface of the wood, the sharpness of the planing edge can also be dulled. Therefore, when choosing a planer blade, choose a blade with good rigidity and heat treatment. In fact, when the planer blade is forged, the blade body is made of ordinary carbon steel (large iron content), and a thin layer of tool steel is forged and bonded by the blade. The part will be soft and hard and ready to use. If the quenching is too hard after heat treatment, the planer blade is rigid and hard to be sharpened, and it is easy to break and collapse when encountering hard objects. After heat treatment, the quenching is too soft, the planer blade is soft and easy to roll, and it cannot be used for a long time, and the blade edge will soon become dull. Therefore, it is best to observe the quality of the planer after sharpening it. A good planing blade, the blade edge is forged into a thin paste of steel, and the phenomenon of thin and shiny appears. The bottom iron of the blade body is dark gray, and the hardened bonding of the blade body and the blade edge is very solid. Note that the inferior blade iron and blade steela dark color, or all shinyare not easy to sharpen in both cases.

kind

Manual planers include common planers and special planers. Commonly used planers are divided into medium and coarse planers, slender planers, and short planers. Special planers are planers used for making special process requirements. Special planers include shaft planers and line planers. Axes planers include iron handle planers, round bottom planers, dual axis planers, internal planers, external planers, etc. Line planers include split planers, slot planers, groove planers, round planers, and single planers.

1. Medium and long planer: used for general machining, rough machining surface, and workpieces with general technical requirements.

2, slender planer: used for fine processing, patchwork and process requirements of the panel light.

3. Thick and short planing: It is often used to plan rough surface of wood.

4. Fine and short planing: It is often used for planing wood surfaces with high requirements.

use

1.Adjusting the planing blade

When installing the planer blade, first match the planer blade with the cover iron, control the distance between the two cutting edges, and then insert it into the planer body. The edge is close to the bottom of the planer, plus the wedge, press it down slightly, pinch the left hand in the left corner of the bottom of the planer, pinch the wedge, cover iron, and planer with the thumb quality, and correct the edge with a hammer to make the The shaving flute is exposed. The amount of cutting edge exposure is proportional to the amount of planing, more rough planing and less fine planing. Check the exposed amount of the planer blade. You can pick up the planer with your left hand, with the bottom facing up, and look back with one eye, you can detect it. If the exposed part is inappropriate, you can tap the upper end of the planer blade gently. If it is exposed too much, you need to go back in and tap the tail of the planer. If the corner of the cutting edge protrudes, just tap the upper side of the same angle of the planing blade.

2.Pushing points

When pushing the planer, the index fingers of the left and right hands extend forward to press the planer body, the thumb presses the back of the planer blade, and the other fingers and palms squeeze the handle tightly. Plan the body flat with both hands evenly. When pushing the planer forward, the thumbs of both hands need to increase the strength, and the two index fingers slightly increase the pressure. When pushing to the front end, the pressure gradually decreases until no pressure is used. When returning, lift the back of the planer slightly by hand, so as not to drag the cutting edge on the wood surface, which is easy to be dull. When planing long materials, the left foot should be in front, then the right heel.

Before planing long materials, you must first check whether the surface being planed is the inner or outer material. Generally, the inner material is cleaner than the outer material and the texture is clear. If it is the inner material, it should be planed along the direction from the root to the top of the tree, and the outer material should be planed along the direction from the top to the root. In this way, planing along the direction of the wood texture saves effort. Otherwise, it is easy to be "stubborn", rough and uneven, and very laborious.

When planing, the bottom of the planer should be close to the surface of the wood. Begin not to raise the planer head. When planing to the end, do not lower the planer head (commonly known as hoe). Otherwise, the middle part of the planed wood surface will be uneven. This is a common problem for beginners and must be corrected.

3. Repair of planing

(1) Grinding of planer blades: Planer blades have been used for a long time, especially after the hard wood and knotted wood are planed, it is easy to become dull or chipped, so it needs to be ground.

When grinding the planer blade, squeeze the upper end of the planer blade with your right hand, and press the planer blade with the index finger and middle finger of your left hand, so that the bevel of the planer blade and the grindstone are in close contact, and pushed back and forth in the grindstone. When grinding, you should water it frequently and flush the mud on the grindstone in time; do not always grind it in one place to keep the grindstone flat. Do not change the angle between the planer blade and the grindstone to ensure that the bevel of the planer blade is flat. The sharpened edge looks like a very fine black line (not white line), and the edge of the blade is dark blue. After the inclined surface of the planer blade is ground, slightly grind the two corners of the planer blade on the grindstone, turn the planer blade over, and place it on the grindstone for two or three times to grind off the edge of the blade.

For planer blades with many defects, first use a coarse grindstone and then grind on a fine grindstone. General planing blades can be ground with fine or medium fine grinding stones only.

(2) Maintenance of the planer: When knocking the planer, knock the tail, do not knock randomly, and do not hit the wedges too tightly, so as not to damage the planer. After the plane is used up, the bottom side should be facing up and not littered. If not used for a long time, the planer blade should be withdrawn. When using it, do not touch the blade with your fingers or try its sharpness. Always check whether the planer is straight and the bottom surface is smooth. If there is any problem, repair it in time.

Woodworking tools

Reasonable selection of files has a great impact on ensuring processing quality, improving work efficiency and extending file life. Coarse-tooth wood file: The coarse tooth has a large tooth pitch, deep tooth depth, and is not easy to block. It is suitable for rough machining (ie, large machining allowances, low accuracy grades and low surface quality requirements) and softer wood files to improve efficiency. Tooth wood file: It is suitable for processing harder materials, and it is often used in fine processing to ensure the accuracy of the processed parts.

The filing direction of the file should be perpendicular or at an angle to the wood grain. Because the teeth of the file are aligned forward, that is, when the file is pushed forward, it is in the filed (working) state, and when it is returned, it is in the non-filed (non-working) state. Therefore, when pushing the file, press down firmly to complete the file, but avoid shaking up and down, and do not use force when returning the file, so as not to blunt the teeth.

Correctly holding the file helps to improve the quality of the file. The method of holding the file: right palm against the end of the wooden handle of the file, place your thumb on the wooden handle of the file, and bend the other four fingers under the wooden handle. The thumb pinches the wooden handle of the file, and the left hand can take a variety of positions depending on the size and strength of the file.

Precautions for use: The wooden file cannot be used for filing metal materials, and it cannot be used as a skid stick or knock on the workpiece; when placing the wooden file, do not expose it to the work surface to prevent the file from falling and hurting the feet; nor can the file be stacked with the file or Files and measuring tools are stacked.

Woodworking tools hand chisel

Manual chiseling is the main tool for the combination of wooden structures in traditional woodworking techniques. It is used for the production of chiseling, hollowing, grooving, and cutting.

Chisel type

Chisels generally have the following types:

1, flat chisel: also known as plate chisel, flat blade, used to chisel square holes. There are many specifications.

2. Round chisels: There are two types of internal and external chisels. The chisel edge is arc-shaped and used to chisel round holes or arc shapes. There are many specifications.

3, oblique blade chisel: The chisel blade is inclined, used to chamfer or cut groove.

installation

Chisel pants are holes for chisel handles. They must be forged solid and smooth without cracks. This will ensure the life of the chisel. The blade body must be neat and thick, with good rigidity and heat treatment, just like the requirements of planing blades. The iron ring of the chisel should be smooth, slightly narrow and not easy to be too wide, and the chisel handle should also be round and smooth.

Newly purchased chisels need to be fitted with chisels and chisels. The chisel shank is made of hardwood and generally has a length of 130mm. Its thickness is slightly thicker than the chisel pants or the same.

When installing, place a 150mm square piece of wood into the hole of the trousers, cut the slope with an axe, plan the circle with an iron handle to smooth it, and load it firmly into the bottom. Turn the other end, press the iron ring of the chisel, cut or repair the smoothness with an iron handle planer, pay attention to install the chisel with a slight slope, and the tension is appropriate. The chisel must be tightly sleeved, and the wood ends that grow out can be flushed by hand sawing, and then riveted with a hammer.

Use of chisel

Before punching (also known as chiseling, chiseling), you should first mark the ink line of the eye. The wood is placed on the wooden mat or work bench with the eye-opening facing up. You can sit on the wood. If the wood is short, you can use your foot to secure it. . When punching, hold the chisel handle with your left hand, and place the chisel blade near the horizontal line (approximately 3-5mm away from the horizontal line), with the chisel edge facing outward. To get a vertical chisel, hit the top of the chisel with an axe or hammer so that the chisel blade enters the wood vertically. At this time, the fiber of the wood is cut off, then pull out the chisel, move the chisel forward and hit it obliquely, and remove the wood chips from the hole. Check out. In the future, we will repeatedly drill and pick out the sawdust. When weaving near the other line, we must reverse the chisel, and the chisel is vertical to remove the sawdust. When the hole is deep cut to half the thickness of the wood, trim the front and back walls, but the two horizontal lines should be left on the wood and not cut. When punching the whole eye (chiseling through holes), first cut the back side to half depth, turn the wood over and cut from the front side, so that there is no tearing around the eyes.

Chisel repair

The sharpening of the chisel and the sharpening method of the planer blade are basically the same. However, due to the long shank of the chisel, special attention should be paid to the parallel reciprocating push and pull in the back and forth, with uniform force and correct posture. Do not click on it to make the blade surface arc. The sharpened blade has a sharp edge, a straight back, and a neat and bright blade surface. There must be no raised edges or convex circles.

Woodworking tools

sandpaper. Can be divided into dry sandpaper, water sandpaper and emery cloth. Dry sandpaper is used for polishing wooden parts, water sandpaper is used to polish objects with water, and abrasive cloth is mostly used for sanding metal parts. It can also be used for wooden structures. The number of sandpaper meshes used in each process is process-specific.

In order to obtain a smooth and smooth processed surface, you can wrap sandpaper on a flat wooden block (or other plane), and sand along the lines. You should first apply heavy sand and then light, and choose a suitable sandpaper for sanding. Usually use coarse sandpaper and then fine sandpaper. When the sandpaper becomes damp and soft, you can bake it on the fire and reuse it.

Woodworking tools steel tape measure

Used for cutting and measuring parts, easy to carry and flexible to use. Usually choose 2m or 3m specifications.

Woodworking tools steel ruler

Generally made of stainless steel, high precision and wear resistance. It is used for scribe lines such as tenon line, lifting line and slot line. Often choose 150 & shy; -500mm

Woodworking tools square

The square used for carpentry is a right angle of 90 °. In ancient times, the square (or square ruler) and compass were called rules. As the saying goes: "There is no rule and no way round."

Gauge, compasses. The norm of a circle depends on the compass; the rectangle and the rectangle. The rectangular square rests on a square. There are compasses and squares to complement square and round furniture shapes.

The square can be used for vertical scribes when cutting materials; parallel scribes for structural mortices and mortise shoulders; used to make whether the angle of the product is measured correctly and perpendicularly; also used to process whether the panel is flat and so on.

Squares are available in wooden, steel and aluminum. The square is the main tool for carpentry marking. Its specifications are determined by the ratio of the length of the ruler handle to the wing.

For example: small square 200: 300mm; medium square 250: 410mm; large square 400: 630mm.

The right-angle accuracy of the square must be protected, and it must not be thrown or dropped, nor can it be used to hit objects at will, resulting in the joint of the ruler handle and the wings being loose, making the square's verticality unusable.

Woodworking tools ink fountain

The principle of the ink fountain is that the ink thread is wound on a movable wheel. After the ink thread is wound by the ink fountain wheel, the end of the thread is tied to a fixed needle. During use, hold the fixed needle, and under the rotation of the movable wheel, the drawn ink line is stained with ink by the ink fountain, and the ink line is straightened to eject the thread to be processed on the wood.

Ink fountains are mostly used for wood cutting. Woodworking ink fountains for furniture manufacturing can be made smaller, and woodworkers for construction wooden structures can be made larger. On the one hand, the ink fountain can be used as the elastic line of the round wood sawn timber, or the elastic line of straightening the edges of the wooden board, and it can also be used to mark the elastic line of the material selection and other aspects. For example, in wooden boards for marking or elastic lines, the ink fountain is also sometimes used as a hanging line to measure whether the line is vertical and flat.

Method of ink fountain line: Take the ink fountain with your left hand, moisten the reel with a small amount of water, and use the ink to blacken the cotton in the ink cartridge. When using, press the left thumb with the pencil to press the cotton ball in the ink cartridge. The thumb should also rest on the reel or release the reel to control the rotation or stop of the wheel. Right hand fix the ink fountain's fixed pin to one end of the wood. At this time, the left hand loosens the wheel and pulls out the thin ink-stained line, which is tightly abutted on the surface of the wood, and the right hand pinches the ink line in the middle and lifts it up perpendicular to the wooden surface. When it is thrown away, an obvious and straight ink line can pop up.

In the use of the ink fountain, be sure to pay attention to the elastic line. Use the right hand to pinch the elastic line in the middle to lift the elastic line to ensure that it is vertical and not to the left or right. Avoid the ink line that is ejected from being straight, forming a curved line or an arc. The camber appears.

Woodworking tools

Scribe is a tool used with ink fountains to hold ink and draw lines. Take the buffalo horn and saw it into a knife-like shape. Use the thin blade of the scribe part on the grindstone.

Good buffalo horns are dipped in ink evenly and the lines are clear. As long as the method is used correctly, the line error of the stroke is much smaller than that of a pencil. It was only later that people gradually used pencils, and some made bamboo strokes with bamboo chips, but the error was large and the effect was not very good.

The blanking line has the inherited process specifications, and is part of the "three-point line and seven-point line". Select materials; matching materials and machining allowances can be correctly reflected by blanking.

Scribing is a prerequisite or basic condition for furniture making. Blanking is the first prerequisite for the design of furniture shapes, structures and materials. Because the blanking line is to ensure the shape of the furniture, first determine what materials are used, whether the materials are good, bad, size, and quality can meet the requirements of furniture production, how to make and what are the big problems. The blank line should be designed as a whole.

The scribing process is a standard within the woodworking bank, and as a technical language, it is universal. It is a one-man cross-line, multi-person sawing, planing, chiseling, sawing, assembly and communication language. It is the earliest production flow line of traditional technology.

Scribing is connected with the selection of materials and materials, with various processing and production processes, and with the artistic beauty of furniture styles. Therefore, marking is a particularly important prerequisite and guarantee for furniture production. In folk crafts, some people call the furniture marking: "tailoring, saving labor and materials". According to the requirements of production, the furniture is good in style and structure, and it also needs to save labor and materials, which means measuring the "body" of designing furniture and cutting the "clothing" of wood to achieve reasonable materials.

(1) You should understand the measuring tools and marking tools of woodworkers, and use the marking technology of wood structures to consolidate the basis of marking and achieve the necessary requirements.

(2) The accuracy of scribing mainly depends on the correct use of measuring tools. One is the marking tool, such as the ruler's specification, the angle of the square and the oblique rule are correct. The second is the error with the pen. That is, the pencil error is generally about 0.25-0.3mm, and the traditional technique usually pays attention to the scratches described in the previous cutting line. Some use a scribing knife. The scribing knife is more accurate when combined at some angles.

The accuracy of the line also depends on the standard of the line. The correct line shape is the premise of the process. According to the accuracy of line processing, there are often specifications of the process. Such as planing, sawing rough processing, mostly for leaving the line; sawing rough cutting can be cut or left. Another example is the fine processing of planing, mortising and sawing, which should pay attention to the line and the line according to the size of the joint.

(3) Correctly use the method of eating and retaining the line, whether it is appropriate to remove the line or leave the line during processing. This is the difference between the first line. The difference in the first line can ensure the solidity of the furniture structure, and the difference in the first line can cause the furniture structure to loosen, and the quality cannot be guaranteed. In the process of sawing and chiseling, the craftsman uses the difference between the first line and the left line to ensure the accuracy of the processing quality.

Woodworking tools claw hammer

1. How to use claw hammer

(1) Nail the nail straight into the wood. When operating, the top of the hammer should be perpendicular to the axis of the nail. Do not deflect, otherwise it will be easy to bend the nail.

(2) In order for the nail to penetrate into the wood smoothly, the first few hammers should be tapped lightly to keep the nails straight into the wood to a certain depth. The last few hammers can be used slightly, so as to avoid bending the nail body.

(3) When nailing nails on hard wood, J should first drill a small hole in the wood according to the nail specifications, and then nail it to prevent the nail from bending or splitting the wood nail.

2. Repair claw hammer

(1) Claw hammer is loose ~ As many as loose at the joint of hammer head and hammer handle. If the hammer is loose, it is easy to bend the nail when nailing. And the hammer head is easy to fall off and hurt people. At this time, wedges or nails can be driven into the wooden handle of the hammer hole and back.

(2) Fracture of the hammer handle First, use a punch to punch the broken hammer handle broken in the hole of the hammer head, and then reinstall the hammer handle according to the size of the hole. For the part where the hammer is driven into the hole of the hammer head, when cutting the hammer, the upper end should be slightly smaller, and the lower end should be slightly larger, so that it can penetrate into the hole smoothly and be firmly installed.

Woodworking tools axe

Classification of axe

The axe weighs 1.0 to 1.25g. There are two types of axe: double-edged axe and single-edged axe. The double-edged axe has the axe blade in the middle, which can chop wood from the left or right sides, which is convenient and flexible. But not as good as a single-edged axe. The axe of the single-edged axe is on one side of the axe, and the angle is relatively small, and it can only be cut to one side, but it is easy to eat and cut straight.

2. How to use the axe

There are two types of flat cut and vertical cut. When flat cutting, generally hold the axe with both hands. When operating, hold the wood firmly on the workbench. Hold the axe end with one hand and the middle part of the axe with the other. Cut the incision along the wood first and then press the ink line Cut from right to left. The vertical chop is a one-handed chop. The operation is right. Hold the axe firmly in one hand and the upper part of the side of the wood with the other. First cut the wood fiber at the cut-off edge part obliquely on the wood in the direction of the grain. The depth of the cut must not cut through the ink line, and then gradually cut from the top to the bottom according to the ink line.

3. Pay attention to the following points when cutting wood with an axe

(1) The position of the axe should be accurate, and the direction and force of the axe should be well grasped. (2) Take the line as the standard, and pay attention to the thickness of the planing: You can cut several cuts obliquely every 100 or so, and the wood chips will easily fall off when the axe falls to the cut. (3) If a knot is encountered, the short material should be turned from the other end and then cut: the long material should be cut from both sides. If the knot is in the center of the board, it should be cut from both sides of the knot. (4) When cutting soft materials, do not use excessive force. Cut lightly. Applying too much force will tear the wood along the grain. (5) When chopping on the ground, put a block of wood under the wood to avoid damage to the axe. When the wood is cut flat, it should be placed on a horse rack or pillow trough for fixing. (6) Pay attention to the firmness of the axe at all times to prevent the axe from coming out and hurting people. The cutting axe must be sharp, so it can be handy when used. Light and accurate: Blunt axe is not only laborious to operate, but also the axe can't hold the material. Easy to hurt people.

Woodworking tools

1. How to use

(1) Keep your left hand and lift your right hand. When using the shuttlecock, hold the tail end of the shuttlecock with your left hand and bring your elbows close to the arms. You should not use too much force to grasp the crosshead, and control the direction: right-hand handle the shuttlecock to 1/3 (counting from the tail end). Raise the cricket to a certain height and press down firmly. (2) When using , "the right foot is in front of the left and the back, the legs close to the T-step, step backwards and walk left first, the right heel upside down." (3) When lowering the chin, the closer the blade is to the foot, the safer it is, and the farther away from the foot, the more dangerous it is. Generally, the position of the blade is more than 300 m above the forefoot. (4) The mule chops up and down, and his waist does not move. Regardless of whether you are lifting your chin or your chin, your body should not sway as the rafters go up and down.