What Are the Best Tips for Starting a Photography Business?

Night photography is a better technique than white photography.

Night photography skills

Right!

Night photography is a trick

You want to find

A sturdy tripod is paramount. I used a Manfrotto tripod, and modified an exploration tripod for photography. The shutter is also a must, and don't forget to bring the flash. I think the small Shenguang brand flash is great. It uses two AA batteries (the same as those used in my camera and electronic flash) and is kept in the pocket. Or in a photography bag. In addition, another thing that is always available is a notebook, which can be used to record everything you experience.

The magnetic compass is useful because if you want to capture the entire track of stars orbiting the North or South Pole, the compass will help you design your photos before it gets dark.

I use a spotlight or electronic flash to illuminate the subject. As for which one to choose, it depends on the size of the subject.

Most of my night scene photos were taken with a wide-angle lens-a 35mm camera with a 24mm lens, a 6 × 6cm frame camera with a 40mm lens, and occasionally, I also use a 35mm camera with a 50mm lens, 6 × 6cm Format camera with 80mm or 150mm lens.

The choice of film depends on personal preference. It is sufficient to use the usual film for short-term exposure. For long-term exposure, you may try some other types of film.

All my night scene photos are taken with daylight-type reversals. For this film, using electronic flash can achieve good color reproduction, while using spotlights will be a little yellowish. For many of my subjects, That said, it's not a problem--the stone doesn't care about this cast. However, sometimes I also add a piece of light blue gelatin film in front of the spotlight. This can make the flash closer to white light, but it will lose about 1/3 of the amount of light. Give it a try

For subjects such as trees and small stones, the use of electronic flashes is very effective, and lighting large subjects requires 12V, 100W handheld lighting equipment, powered by a portable, completely sealed motorcycle battery. In this way, the flash can gradually illuminate the subject, and the entire process can be mastered by yourself, from 1 minute to 1 hour.

When using an electronic flash, I don't attach the flash to the camera because it is too dark. I use the flash around the subject 1 or 2 times to outline the outline of the subject from different angles. Usually, one side of the subject is taken as an important part, and more light is used for illumination. The subject captured in this way has a three-dimensional effect, without the dull effect caused by flashing from the camera position.

When you flash, you can hide behind trees, rocks, or other objects. This is the most reliable way to ensure that your figure does not appear in the camera. Set up your camera during the day, find out where you want to illuminate the subject, mark it with stones, sticks, or other obvious things, and determine how many times you need to light at each location.

In general, the index of the flash is designed according to indoor conditions and is not accurate outdoors. Outdoors, I usually open the aperture 1 1/2 steps wider to compensate for the loss caused by the lack of reflections from walls and ceilings, and subjects such as stone buildings are usually dark.

When you want to flash the tree at night, there will always be some problems, so you must use the flash at night when there is almost no wind, otherwise the position of the leaves and branches will change slightly with each flash. In order to fully illuminate the entire canopy, some additional flashes are needed. Take a small tree as an example: aim at the trunk from the left and flash at the focal length of 50 mm. Flash 2 times (50 mm) towards the trunk and 3 times (85 mm) towards the crown from the right.

Dew and fog are troublesome, but in some places they are not common, and I find that they are generally foreseeable and avoidable. In case of dew, it is a way to cover the camera with a thin plastic bag. If the dew is condensed on the lens, the image will gradually disappear.

For night scene photography, it is more suitable to choose semi-arid areas. You can easily find the right shooting spot, where you can set up the camera and shoot after dark.

If you are going to shoot star trails with long exposures, clean air is the first condition. Find a place away from all kinds of pollution caused by dust, fog and city lights, and look for a sky where no planes really pass. If an aircraft passes through the camera's field of view during the exposure process, a frustrating line will be created on the film. Satellites and meteorites can also cause light streaks in photos. There is nothing you can do about the meteor, but if you wait an hour or two in the dark at night, the satellite can be avoided. If people don't know what you're doing, someone might curiously move around in front of your camera with a flashlight. This will cause trouble for your shooting, and you must be prepared for this. At first you may think that the reciprocity law is a problem, but otherwise, you can usually shoot according to the lighting conditions you have used under the same conditions. Remember when I mentioned that I had to prepare that notebook?

With the camera set at dawn, it's easier to compose shots at night. If your tripod is not strong enough, try the following suggestions: Drop something heavy (such as a stone or sandbag) in the center of the stand, press some stones on the tripod's feet, or fix the feet with tent nails.

Put some rubber bands in the camera bag, you can tie the camera strap and the shutter cable to the tripod during the exposure process to prevent them from floating in the wind. Don't forget to remove the lens cap. This sounds strange to someone using a single-lens reflex camera, but the reason is simple: we usually support the camera when there is still light, and do a series of preparations: ensure level, frame the picture, and wait until everything is in place After that, close the lens cover and wait for it to get dark. We started shooting when it was dark, because at this time the light was too dark to observe the view, so we would not go to view again, then you most likely forgot to remove the lens cover. That's why you have to get into the habit of removing the lens cap before starting the exposure.

Once you start taking photos after sunset, you will soon have other shooting ideas, then in the end, I hope you can achieve more happiness and take more interesting photos by implementing these ideas.