What Is Grapefruit Pectin?

Red Heart Grapefruit also known as: Grapefruit, Grapefruit, Red Grapefruit, Latin name: Citrus paradisi Macf. Rutaceae, Citrus small tree, slightly drooping branches, glabrous. The leaf shape and texture are similar to that of pomelo leaves, but they are generally small, the wings are narrow and short, and the wings of the young leaves are short and finely hairy. Racemes, sparse or single-flowered axillary; calyx glabrous; petals slightly smaller than pomelo. The fruit is oblate to spherical, the skin is yellow-orange, and the constant ten clusters form spikes, which are similar to grapes, hence the name. It is smaller than pomelo and has a thin peel. The top of the fruit has or has no rings. The sac has 12-15 petals. The fruit core is full, cottony, and the flesh is pink. It is tender, juicy, refreshing, slightly fragrant and slightly acidic. Individual varieties have both bitter and hemp tongue flavors; there are few or no seeds, and many embryos. Fruit period from October to November.

Red Heart Grapefruit

Red heart grapefruit originated from

Evergreen trees, usually 6-6.5 meters in height, up to 13-15 meters.

Leaf flower

The leaves are narrow and long

Red heart grapefruit has higher requirements for heat, and the planting area requires an average annual temperature above 18 ° C. Can be planted in places with an annual accumulated temperature higher than 10 above 6000 , and can produce high quality above 7000

Red heart grapefruit was first discovered in Barbados, South America around 1750. It was introduced to the United States in 1880 and introduced to China around 1940. The flora of the Americas does not have citrus at all, so the origin of its relatives should be in Asia, and its origin must be traced back, possibly in China. Red West

Red Heart in Grapefruit

The soil layer is required to be deep (60) and fertile; the soil pH is 5.5-7.0; the orchard slope is less than 25 degrees. In the planning of the garden, necessary roads, drainage, irrigation, water storage and auxiliary building facilities should be provided. In the specific planning, try to focus on the film as far as possible and build the park in a place with good traffic and water conditions. Time: Generally planted after the autumn shoots mature in September-November or before the shoots germinate in March-February. Density: Planting at a density of 3m × row spacing of 4m, 55-60 plants per acre. Planting technology: soil digging and planting holes: pull lines to set the distance, digging planting holes, hole depth and width of 80cm, then press green fertilizer 50cm deep, backfill soil 40cm high planting; field ridge planting: 8 meters with groove (ditch width 60-80) , the depth is 40-60cm), and 2 ridges per ridge (1.5m ridge width, 4m ridge center distance, 20-30cm ridge height). When planting, the root system of the seedlings is trimmed appropriately and placed in the center of the planting hole. The root system is stretched and straightened. While filling the soil, the seedlings are gently lifted up and solid, so that the root system is in close contact with the soil. Pour enough water to make roots, make a 1m tree tray around the saplings, and cover with bran husks. Soil management: We should do well to deepen and expand the holes and mature the soil. It is forbidden to plant corn, wheat and other tall stalk plants in the garden, and do a good job of rational intercropping and weeding in the orchard.

Fertilization principles: The needs of blood oranges for various nutrient elements should be fully met, and more organic fertilizers, rational application of inorganic fertilizers and formula fertilizers should be advocated. According to the results of leaf analysis, orchard soil analysis, blood orange phenology, etc., fertilization was guided. Fertilization method: Mainly apply soil fertilization and cooperate with foliar fertilization. The methods of circular furrow application, furrow application, acupoint application, and soil surface fertilizer application are adopted. Fertilization of young trees: Apply thinly, mainly nitrogen, with phosphorus and potassium, and fertilize 5-6 times in spring, summer, and autumn shoots. (3, 5, 6, 7, 9, and 12 months, each Apply 0.4 kg of ammonium or 0.2 kg of urea per plant at a time. For young plants of 1-3 years, apply 100-400g of pure nitrogen per year, and the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be 1.0: (0.4-0.5): 1.0. Adult trees Apply the fertilizer four times, that is, germination fertilizer, fruit-preserving fertilizer, strong fruit fertilizer, and fruit-picking fertilizer. The fertilization amount is generally 2-3 kg of chemical fertilizer, a load of manure water; 1-2 kg of phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer + 1 kg of chemical fertilizer ; Strong fruit fertilizer 1-2 kg of chemical fertilizer + 1-2 kg of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; picking fruit fertilizer (basal fertilizer) is mainly organic fertilizer, plant 50-100 kg of organic fertilizer + 1-2 kg of chemical fertilizer. Water: irrigation when the soil is dry , Drainage when standing water.

Principles: Adapt to local conditions, pruning trees, proper suppression, ventilation and light, three-dimensional results. Shaping: (Natural happy shape). The stem is 20-40cm in height, and the main branches (3-4 branches) are scattered on the trunk. The branch angle of the main pole is 30 ° -50 °. Each main branch has 2-3 secondary main branches. Generally after the third main branch is formed, the central stem-like cut is twisted to one side to form a fruiting branch group. Pruning: Young trees are mainly lightly cut. After selecting the central extension branch, the main branch, and the sub-main branch extension branch, moderately or severely short cut it, and adjust the growth balance between the main branches with the degree of short cut and the direction of the cut bud. Except for the appropriate thinning of the overdense branch group, the weaker branch tips of the bored branches and the lower and middle crowns should generally be retained. Initial fruiting period: Continue to choose short cuts to deal with extended branches of backbones at all levels, erase summer shoots, and promote healthy autumn shoots. In autumn, ring-cutting, root-cutting, and water-controlling measures are adopted for vigorous trees. Full fruit period: timely shrink back the fruiting branch group, the flowering fruiting branch group and the decaying branch group, cut off the light-blocking branches, dead branches, disease and insect branches.

Anthrax: strengthen cultivation management to prevent partial application of nitrogen fertilizer; in the spring and summer shoots and before the fruit matures, you can use mancozeb, copper pine, zinc, chlorothalonil, etc. Spray once, 3-4 times in a row. Foot rot: timely drainage, improve the light and ventilation conditions in the garden, and strengthen the prevention and control of Monochamus and other trunk pests; disease-resistant rootstocks such as loquat, orange, and orange are used. Disease-resistant rootstocks can be used for disease-resistant rootstocks. Change the anvil. Medicament prevention: Apply the medicine after scraping the lesions. Commonly used medicines include carbendazim and methyl tobzine. Mites: (citrus red spider, four-spot yellow spider rust tick). Before and after flowering (March-May) and autumn (September-November) are the key periods for controlling spider mites: the density of insect mouth before flowering reaches 1-2 heads / leaf, and after flowering and autumn it reaches 5-6 heads / leaf. Prevention. The main periods of rust control are spring shoots, young fruit and fruit swelling. The rust of the spring leaves of the spring shoots begins to appear rusty. The density of the worm mouth on the leaves or fruits reaches 2-3 per leaf. Commonly used medicaments are thiafenone, fenfosin, acetylfen, bromofen, dimethypam, etc. Pay attention to protect natural enemies such as long-stemmed mites, blunt mites, mite-eating ladybirds, Japanese square head armor and grasshoppers. category: (Saijian , red wax , cotton blowing , etc.). Key period for drug control: The nymph is the first-generation nymph stage, the red wax cricket is the period when a large number of larvae are injured (usually from May, mid to mid-June), and the cotton pupae is the larval stage. Commonly used agents are thiazinone, fenfosin, matrine + nicotine, Lesbon, motor oil emulsion and so on. Pay attention to improving the ventilation and light transmission conditions in the garden; protect and use natural enemies such as Japanese square head armor, red-spotted ladybird, grasshopper, golden aphid bee, Australian ladybug, and red ladybug. Aphids: The damage rate of new shoots reaches 25%, which should be sprayed immediately. Commonly used agents are sting insects, dimethoate, fentanyl, etc. Attention should be paid to protecting the seven-star ladybugs, large grasshoppers, aphid-eating flies, aphid bees, etc., cutting off overwintering eggs, and reducing the number of pests. Leaf miner: The key period for prevention and control is the summer and autumn shoots (first half of July). The sporadic summer and autumn shoots removed in time, combined with fertilizer and water management, promoted the new shoots from the plants to be robust and tidy. Medicine prevention and control: spray when the new shoot is 1-2cm, spray once every 7-10 days, 2-3 times in a row. Commonly used agents are avermectin, fenitrothion, cyfluthrin and so on. Cerambycidae: May-August, artificially killing adults of the star beetle and green orange beetle on a clear day, and killing the adult brown beetle in the evening; timely removal of eggs, newly hatched larvae and cut off of the injured branches; wet with cotton or cotton Dimethoate and other insecticides block the wormholes, and then close the wormholes with soil to poison the larvae. Flower bud : At the time of bud, select dime powder, diazinon granules, etc. and mix with fine soil and spread it on the soil of the tree tray, once every 7 days for 2-3 times in a row; when the diameter of the flower bud is 2-3mm ( At present) Phosphorus and trichlorfon are used to spray the canopy; the injured flower buds are removed as soon as possible, and they are concentratedly buried or boiled; turning over the garden soil in winter can eliminate some of the overwintering insect pests.